Collar construction



Dec. 11, 1962 H. Q. cENToRE COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 15, 1961 65 n' i' i 26 l i 34 4o F|G.3

INVENTOR. HENRY. Q C-ENTORE ATTORNEY.

United States Patent 3,067,429 COLLAR CONTRUCTION Henry Q. Cantore, 402 Hoeiler St., Syracuse, N.Y. Filed Feb. 13, 1961, Ser. No. 88,871 4 Claims. (Cl. 2-9S) This invention relates to suit coat collars, and more particularly to a collar construction having reinforcement tied in with the collar break and coat lapel construction to assure retention of its shape.

Suit co-ats are fitted to the wearer in respect to the collar by taking up at various seams so as to provide correct appearance, and a collar that neatly embraces the neck, Such suit coats when once fitted are from time to time subjected to dry cleaning followed by pressing. In the latter operation, the use of upright forms for pressing having no particular relation .to the shape of the coat or the collar itself as fitted to a particular wearer, have come into use. In the operation of such apparatus, coats are drawn tautly around the form prior to and during pressing by lthe operators thereof, and after repeated such treatment, the collar becomes stretched and rolled out of shape, and when worn, no longer tits the wearer, resulting in an unsightly appearance.

Reinforcement of collars has been proposed, in an effort to maintain the shape, but all such proposals fail to prevent the ultimate misshaping from rolling or stretching of the collar resulting from the application of the garment to the pressing forms referred to.

The present invention is directed to a collar reinforcement adapted to maintain the shape of the collar, as well as to prevent elongation thereof and rolling up. The invention further contemplates the provision of reinforcement in the collar effective to hold the collar shape against rolling up by fixing the location of the collar break, and effective to prevent stretching along the break. 'Ihe invention further contemplates a reinforcement that cooperates with the lapel structure of the garment to attain the reinforcement capable of resisting the manual stretching referred to and the tendency to roll the collar during the pressing operation.

The above and other novel features of the invention will appear more fully hereinafter from the following detailed description, when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. It is expressly understood that the drawings are employed for purposes of illustration only and are not designed as a definition of the limits of the invention, reference being had for this purpose to the appended claims.

1n the drawings, wherein like reference characters indicate like parts: v

FIGURE 1 is an elevational view of the collar and lapel portion of a coat to which the invention is adapted;

FIGURE 2 is a fragmentary plan View of the collar and lapel construction with parts removed;

FIGURE 3 is a sectional view taken through the collar construction substantially on the line 3-3 of FIGURE 2; and

FIGURE 4 is a sectional view taken through the lapel construction substantially on the line 4-4 of FIGURE 2.

Referring to FIGURE l there is shown a typical suit coat having a body portion 20, collar 22, lapels 24 and 26, with the usual notch or gorge 28 intervening, except as in the case of a shawl collar. As shown in FIGURES 2, 3 and 4, the collar and lapel construction comprises at the collar, a neck band comprising a layer of collar cloth 30 folded as at 32, and having an overlying layer of canvas 34 folded over the collar cloth 30, as at 36, and in the usual collar construction, the top collar fabric 38 is disposed over the canvas and collar cloth as indicated. The canvas and collar fabric adjacent their lower RCC inside edges, are in turn stitched to the body cloth 40 of the garment as at 39.

The lapel construction comprises body cloth 40, like the top collar fabric 38 and the body fabric 40, herein above referred to. The body fabric I4t) overlies stiiening canvas or buckram 42 and a felt layer 45. The body cloth is folded over the canvas or buckram edge 44 as at 46 and stitched thereto as will be understood in the art. Overlying the body fabric and canvas 42 is the facing material 4S which extends around the lapel and the fold Sti thereof, and extends to and under the lining 52. The buckram 42, extends to and overlies the collar fabric 30 and canvas 34 and may be stitched thereto in any suitable manner. It has been the practice to provide bridle tapes 54 extending from above the notch or gorge 28 of the lapel, or the region thereof as in a shawl collar construction, such .tapes extending from near the gorge 28, or the gorge region, at an angle to the lapel fold 50, with an edge thereof at the fold as at 58 at the upper end, and located inwardly of the fold at the lower end as at 60. rfhe tapes 54 are stitched along their edges to the inside face of the buckram as at 61 and to such material as the felt 45', which may overlie the buckram.

in order to prevent stretching and rolling of the collar, as occurs, when a pressing operator grasps .the lapels of a coat in an attempt to shape the coat around the pressing form, the present invention contemplates the provision of an un-elastic fabric tape such as 62 which extends around the inside of the collar fold or break 36. The

tape 62 extends around the collar to a point below the lapel notches or the region thereof, on either side, so as to overlap the bridle tapes referred to, and such collar tape is securely stitched to the bridle tapes to provide anchorage thereto as at 63. The collar tape may be of a width to approximately reach to the region of the stitching 39.

In order for the tape to effectively hold the collar shape, and to prevent stretching thereof and also to prevent rolling of .the collar, the tape 62 is rstitched along its upper edge to the fold of collar canvas and collar cloth as at 65, the stitching extending clear through the fold as indica-ted at 64, the stitching reinforcing the fold, and securing the tape thereto, so as to provide effective resistance to stretching the collar out of shape. The combination of the tape so stitched through the entire fold provides reinforcement against subsequent misshaping of the collar, prevents stretching and rolling and anchors the collar construction to the lapel construction whereby to effectively resist .the tugging of pressing operations over the pressing form, whether the form be of proper shape for the tit of the garment or otherwise.

The stitching of the tape through the entire fold of the collar fabric and collar at the break 36, as at 64, fixes the break, thus preventing the collar from rolling either up or down. Without the reinforcing stitched completely through the break 36, as at 64, the operator applying the garment to the pressing form, tugs at the lapels, and rolls the collar up or down to make a tit over the form and then presses the collar when thus rolled out of shape, resulting in a misshapen collar, and a misfit to the wearer from that time on. Thus it can be seen that applying un-elastic tape stitched through the fold or collar break, and tied at its ends to the bridle tapes by stitching in the manner set forth, provides a collar construction, the original shape of which cannot be altered by any mistreatment. "Ihe stitching through and through not only attaches the un-elastic tape to the collar break, but serves to permanently locate the break, and prevent rolling either up or down.

Although a single embodiment of the invention has been illustrated and described, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited thereto. As various changes in the construction and arrangement and means for attaining the result may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, as will be apparent to those skilled in 4the art, reference will be had to the appended claims fora dention of the limits of the invention.

What is claimed is:

l. In a collar construction for a coat, a neck band comprising fabric means including a stiffening fabric folded over to form the collar break of the neck band, said stiffening fabric extending along the entire length of the neck band, right and left hand lapel constructions comprising stiffening fabric having a lengthwise fold to define a lapel and a coat body stiffening portion disposed at and extending from the opposite ends of said neck band, and joined thereto, with the fold thereof forming an extension of the neck band break, bridle tapes affixed to the coat body stiiening portion, and extending from adjacent the lapel fold at the neck band end of the lapel construction and to a point inwardly disposed of the lapel fold at the lower end of the lapel construction, and an unelastic tape of a width less than the width of said neck band, disposed with its upper edge extending along the inside of said collar band immediately adjacent said break, and means for securing the upper edge of said tape to the collar stifening fabric through both folds thereof immediately adjacent the break, said unelastic tape being of a length to extend to and overly the upper ends of said bridle tapes, and means to secure the unelastic tape ends to the respective bridle tape ends.

2. In a collar construction for a coat, a neck band comprising fabric means including a stiiening fabric folded over to form the collar break of the neck band, said stiifening fabric extending along the entire length of the neck band, right and left hand lapel construction comlprising stiiening fabric having a lengthwise fold to define a lapel and a coat body stiffening portion disposed at and extending from the opposite ends of said neck band, and joined thereto, with the fold thereof forming an extension of the neck band break, bridle tapes stitched stitched along the length thereof to the coat body stiiening portion, and extending from adjacent the lapel fold at the neck band end of the lapel construction and to a point inwardly disposed of the lapel fold at the lower end of the lapel construction, and an unelastic tape of a width less than the width of said neck band, disposed with its upper edge extending along the inside of' said collar band immediately adjacent said break, and stitching for securing the upper edge of said tape to the collar stiffening fabric, said stitching extending through both folds thereof immediately adjacent the break, said i unelastic tape being of a length to extend to and overly the upper ends of said bridle tapes, and stitching to secure the unelastic tape ends to the respective bridle tape ends.

3. A coat collar construction, a neck band comprising fabric means including a stiifening fabric folded over to form the collar break of the neck band, said stiifening fabric extending along the entire length of the neck band right and left hand lapel constructions comprising stifening fabric having a lengthwise fold to define a lapel and a coat body stirening portion disposed at and extending from the opposite ends of said neck band, with the fold thereof forming an extension of the neck band break, and an unelastic tape of a width less than the width of said neck band, disposed with its upper edge extending along the inside of said collar band immediately adjacent said break, and means for securing the upper edge of said tape to the collar stiifening fabric through both foids thereof immediately adjacent the break said unelastic tape being of a length to extend into the fold of the lapel constructions, and means to secure the tape ends, within the respective lapel constructions.

4. A coat collar construction, a neck band comprising fabric means including a stilening fabric folded over to form the collar break of the neck band, said stiffening fabric extending along the entire length of the neck band right and left hand lapel constructions comprising stiftening fabric having a lengthwise fold to define a lapel and a coat body stiening portion disposed at and extending from the opposite ends of said neck band, with the fold thereof forming an extension of the neck band break, and an unelastic tape of a width less than the width of said neck band, disposed with its upper edge extending along the inside of said collar band immediately adjacent said break, and stitching for securing the upper edge of said tape to the collar stiffening fabric, said stitching extending through both folds thereof immediately adjacent the break said unelastic tape being of a length to extend into the fold of the lapel constructions, and means to ecure the tape ends, Within the respective lapel constructions.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 281,578 Stone July 17, 1883 770,715 Engel Sept. 20, 1904 1,014,651 Kohn Ian. 16, 1912 1,493,772 Zuck May 13, 1924 2,433,522 Lowe Dec. 30, 1947 

